Dulcey is a new chocolate bar from Valrhona, and
it is "Blond". Nothing like no other chocolate you've tasted, Valrhona
- in fact - describes its Dulcey bar as having the aroma of
"roasted Breton shortbread". The Valrhona's partner Starbucks has
triumphed with its Blonde coffee roast, and perhaps were watching a new market
category emerging. Note to Ben & Jerry: Blond Coffee Ice Cream with Blond
Chocolate Chips would be quite divine, no? You could call it Marilyn.
Dulcey Bar Chocolate: a new food trend for
Chocolate Lovers
Hmmm. How to describe it? Tasting nothing
like plain milk chocolate, and unlike dark chocolate, which requires some
serious chewing, butterscotch-hued Dulcey melts voluptuously
in your mouth. It is at once caramel-ly and uber-creamy with a lovely creamy
aftertaste.
But to me, this new bar tastes like a
shockingly creamy dulce de leche, which is an insanely favourite dessert in
Latin America. You make it by slowly cooking sweetened condensed milk until it
caramelises and turns the irresistible colour of butterscotch.
You can try this at home by standing an
unopened can of sweetened condensed milk in a pot of water and then boiling it
for several hours, which is a perilous thing to do since the can explode,
covering your kitchen, and you, with molten liquid.
But I've done it several times, and can
safely confirm that Valrhona's blond chocolate is a dead ringer for
dulce de leche, only better.
The "Blond" Chocolate by Valhrona:
how to Make a New Food Trend
Dulcey Chocolate Bar is a random invention, and the unexpected
surprise is that was invented by mistake! Frédéric Bau, director of Valrhona's
chocolate school, Ecole du Grand Chocolat, inadvertently left a
bowl of molten white chocolate on top of a bain-marie and let it cook for hours
until it morphed into a brand new category.
The company is careful to say that Dulcey is
not, however, roasted white chocolate but is, instead, a distinct shelf-stable
product due to its "unique production process and ingredients."
The "Blond" Chocolate meets
Chocolate Lovers
Everyone is going Crazy for Dulcey.
I've heard that serious pastry chefs are experimenting with this new flavour
profile, and others are flocking. These are some names of eminent pastry
chefs that, coast-to-coast, are experimenting with it now:
• Ghaya Oliveira at Boulud Sud in
New York City has created "Cremoso", a pannacotta made with dulcet,
hazelnut paste, napped with sumac cream and garnished with chocolate hazelnut
crunch;
• Colleen Grapes, the pastry chef at The
Harrison in NY (just love her name);
• Elwyn Boyles, pastry chef at Per Se;
• Michael Aguilar of Wolfgang Puck's WP24 in
Los Angeles;
• Kelly Fields of John Besh's August restaurant
in New Orleans;
• Dana Cree of Blackbird in
Chicago.
I'm so intrigued how they're using it, and I
should try to create something unique, maybe likes my mother's confections
"Blondies".
Dulcey is the "Blond" Chocolate that
you've never tasted
The first time I've bitten Ducey
Chocolate Bar from Valrhona, the dessert that surprised me
when I was youngster come to mind.
One evening, my mother amazed the family by
setting upon our dinner table a platter of what, by tradition and consensus,
should have been brownies, but weren't. "They're blondies," she
exclaimed. "I just found the recipe in Wednesday's food section."
There were glum faces all around, especially mine ... until I bit into one of
these unique confections, and then we had a new dessert favourite around the
house.
All this came to mind recently when I bit
into a new chocolate bar from Valrhona called Dulcey
Chocolate Bar. It is a "blond" chocolate, and it is like no other
chocolate you've tasted. I expect there will be numerous copycats pretty soon.
The blondies my mother made reminded me of those shortbread cookies that came
in fancy cans from gourmet stores.
Valrhona, in fact, describes its Dulcey bar
as having the aroma of "roasted Breton shortbread." I, too, am eager
to try tucking Dulcey into dessert somewhere between a brownie
and the blondie that my mother made for dinner all those years ago.
Dulcey Bar Chocolate, a real new trend for Food Lovers?
Is a new marketing category emerging?
Between Starbucks and Valrhona, perhaps we're
watching a new market category emerging. After all, Americans also are
abandoning dark colas in droves, shifting to "lighter" juice blends
and waters.
Perhaps "blond" or
"blonde" (have it your way) is becoming a bit of a trend now
that Starbucks has triumphed with its Blonde coffee roast,
aimed at people who haven't quite figured out why anyone likes their ultra dark
roasts, or what diehard Dunkin' Donuts drinkers call
"Charbucks."
Note to Ben & Jerry: Blond Coffee
Ice Cream with Blond Chocolate Chips would be quite
divine, no? You could call it Marilyn.
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